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Milan CNN —Gimmicks were gone at the latest Milan runways — which concluded yesterday — with designers instead striking a more serious note that encouraged investment buying. Julianne Moore, A$AP Rocky and Salma Hayek front row at the Bottega Veneta fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week. Jacopo Raule/Getty Images1980s reduxRelegated as the style decade that people preferred to forget, the 1980s is slowly but surely starting to pop up on the radar. Jacopo Raule/Getty ImagesEven at MaxMara, famed for its trademark camel, creative director Ian Griffiths went in a deliberately different direction to focus on silhouette over shade. Jacopo Raule/Getty ImagesDark colors also dominated at Giorgio Armani this season.
Persons: Milan, Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons, Donatella Versace, , Julianne Moore, Rocky, Salma Hayek, Daniele Venturelli, Giorgio Armani, Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy, ” Franken, Franken, Jonas Gustavsson, Matthieu Blazy, Victor Virgile, Blazy “, Massimo Giorgetti —, Truman Capote’s “, , knitwear, Jacopo Raule, Jil Sander, stilettos, Matteo Tamburini, Kim Jones, Karl Lagerfeld, Leigh Bowery, Judy, Julia, Versace, Anne Hathaway, Gina di Bernardo —, Aldo Fallai’s, Prince, Ferragamo, Tom Ford, Giovanni Giannoni, Ian Griffiths, “ We’re, we’re, Marco M, Gigi Hadid, Solange Knowles, Jacopo M, Matthieu, Aitor Rosas Sune, WWD, Hari Nef, Riccardo Giordano, Sipa Cate Blanchett, Gabriel Bouys Organizations: Milan CNN, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Blazy, Truman Capote’s “ La, Truman Capote’s “ La Cote Basque, Getty, Dolce, Diesel, Milan Locations: Milan, , Bottega, MSGM, Truman Capote’s “ La Cote, London, “ London, MaxMara, Avavav, AFP
Moschino: Adrian Appiolaza makes his Milan debut
  + stars: | 2024-02-23 | by ( Scarlett Conlon | ) edition.cnn.com   time to read: +5 min
Milan CNN —Trompe ‘l’oeil suspenders, resplendent ruffles, and polka dots aplenty: the 1980s Moschino archive was out in force to mark Adrian Appiolaza’s debut as creative director at the house on Thursday evening in Milan, albeit filtered through a fresh perspective. “It was about taking Franco Moschino’s masterpieces and bringing them back to life while balancing the theatricality that he was known for,” said Appiolaza at a preview of the pieces before the show. “Today, it’s important for people to feel related to the collection.”Appiolaza said his aim with this collection was to bring Franco Moschino's masterpieces "back to life." As an avid collector and self-proclaimed archivist, Appiolaza’s instinct took him straight to the founder Franco Moschino’s back catalogue. Jacopo Raule/Getty ImagesSpliced Stetsons and double denim also continued the cowboy-core theme we've seen a lot for fall.
Persons: Milan, resplendent ruffles, Adrian Appiolaza’s, Franco, , Appiolaza, ” Appiolaza, Jacopo Raule, Loewe, Alexander McQueen, Miguel Andover, Phoebe Philo, Davide Renne, Jeremy Scott, Franco Moschino’s, , Pietro D'Aprano, Smiley, , Katy Perry, SpongeBob, Tweety Bird, Adrian Appiolaza Organizations: Milan CNN, , CNN, McDonalds Locations: Milan, Chloé
This yellow coat and matching hat channeled fisherman chic at SS Daley. Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty ImagesA seafaring element was evident in the collection at Emporio Armani too. To complement the sleek lines of suits came long coats in fine wool and leather that were part “Bladerunner,” part “Matrix” and part ode to the 1990s. The brooch is back, pinned to lapels at S.S. Daley, Magliano, Emporio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana. Functional, useful and classic, as above at Emporio Armani, were the key themes of the season in Milan.
Persons: Milan, Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons, Simons, officewear, Victor Virgile, , Daley, Giovanni Giannoni, Emporio Armani, Steven Stokey Daley, Harry Styles, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Anne, Britain's Princess Anne, Alessandro Levati, ” Fendi, Princess Royal, , chunky knitwear, Neil Barrett, British Harris, Brunello, , JW Anderson, Justin Shin, tailcoats, Stefano Gabbana, Domenico Dolce, Gabbana, Stefania D'Alessandro, Sabato de Sarno, Tom Ford, Sabato de, Gucci, Daniele Venturelli, de Sarno, Magliano, Massimo Giorgetti, Franco Albini, Gabanna, Armani Organizations: Milan CNN, Prada, CNN, Balmoral, Gabbana, Gucci, Dolce, Milan Metro, diamante Locations: Milan, British, Florence, Wellington, S.S, Saltburn, Italy
Yet, if Gucci’s new designer Sabato de Sarno was rattled before he took his bow for the Italian luxury house at Milan fashion week on Friday, he didn’t show it. Where Michele was an overt maximalist with retro references, de Sarno mined the Gucci archive and codes in a more stripped-back way. Oxblood red dominated the collection, inspired by The Savoy hotel in London where Guccio Gucci worked in the late 1800s. The bling was, in fact, a reference to the Marina jewelry collection that appeared in Gucci campaigns in the late 1960s. The rest of the embellished crystal designs were inspired by embroideries de Sarno found on 1960s clutch bags in the Gucci archive.
Persons: Milan, Sabato de Sarno, Alessandro Michele’s, De Sarno, Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, Jessica Chastain, Kendall Jenner, Julia Garner, Francois, Henri Pinault, Swan, Gucci Ancora ”, , de Sarno, Prada, Gabbana, Valentino, Michele, Jackie, , Guccio Gucci, Daniele Venturelli, “ Rosso Ancora, , Sabato De Sarno, Gucci, Kering, Daria Werbowy, Tom Ford Gucci, embroideries de Sarno Organizations: Milan CNN, Brera, Gucci, Dolce Locations: Milan, , Savoy, London, Naples
Milan, Italy CNN —A new dawn rose in Milan on Thursday evening as British designer Peter Hawkings made his hotly anticipated debut in the creative director chair at Tom Ford. Hawkings said the show was a moment he felt like he'd been preparing for "my entire life." “Tom handing over the baton obviously meant everything to me.”Ford's high-octane sex appeal was still present in this collection, designed by Hawkings. “It was important for (the Tom Ford) woman (to) come closer to the man, because I think there was a disconnect before.… due to Tom being in LA and the design team being here. Claudia Greco/ReutersThe decision to kick-start the Hawkings era in Milan made “total sense” he said.
Persons: Italy CNN —, Peter Hawkings, Tom Ford, Hawkings, Ford, Estee Lauder, Sharp, Claudia Greco, backless, Gwyneth Paltrow, he'd, Tom, , Louise Wilson, “ He’s, Reuters Hawkings, Whitney Bromberg, Donyale Luna, Andy Warhol, Richard Avedon, ” Bromberg, “ It’s, Gucci, Gucci’s, Sabato De Sarno, Tom Ford’s Gucci, , I’ve Organizations: Italy CNN, Ford, Gucci, MTV, Central Saint Martins, Reuters, womenswear, Detroit -, Milan Fashion Locations: Milan, Italy, Central, London, LA, Detroit
Step forward the “corporate artisan”, star of the Italian fashion house’s SS24 show on Thursday night and proposed pin-up for next season. Part technical-whizz, part traditional tool-master, the handle speaks to the modern-day creative, said Artistic Director Silvia Venturini Fendi in a pre-show preview with CNN. FendiFor the accessories, Venturini Fendi collaborated with the Japanese architect Kengo Kuma - who she regards to be “the best to combine nature and technology” - to reinvent signature Fendi bags including the Peekaboo in traditional Japanese washi paper. The clog silhouette is going nowhere, as Fendi becomes the latest high fashion brand to reimagine the comfy slip-on shoe. Pietro D'Aprano/Getty ImagesThe set, said Venturini Fendi, was masterminded so to be transparent about the teamwork involved in creating a fashion collection.
Persons: Silvia Venturini Fendi, Fendi, , Kengo Kuma, JW Anderson, Pietro D'Aprano, Venturini Fendi, “ It’s, ” Alexander Skarsgard, Daniele Venturelli, Adele, Karl Lagerfeld, Organizations: CNN, JW Locations: Capannuccia, Florence, Italy, Rome
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